Monday, September 10, 2007

Vigan Empanada, Longanisa at Bagnet


















Photos: Vigan Longanisa being air-dried; Filling assembly of Vigan Empanada; Bagnet in its 1st stage of frying



I haven't been on a culinary tour for quite a while, so when the opportunity came for me to join a group of foodies in a recent trip to Vigan, Ilocos Sur, I had no second thoughts at all.

Our schedules were hectic. We were off to see how the Ilocos Sur specialties were done. Longanisa, Bagnet, Empanada. We were on to learning more about these gustatory pleasures. In anticipation, I felt like a teenager going on a first date. Armed with an empty stomach anticipating all the food tastings, we went to our first stop - Vigan Longanisa making.

Vigan longanisa has a distinct garlic and vinegar flavor with its yellow-orange tinge from the use of annatto seeds. Given the artisan ways each of the makers use (it is mostly done by hand), there is no standard formulation, just the feel and taste of the "manangs" (elderly ladies) who make it. They use hog intestines for casing and is air dried prior to selling. A dozen sells for about Php120 and it is a welcome change from the usual sweet longanisa one is used to.

Bagnet (chunks of deep fried pork shoulder), I found is cooked the same way my former employer would make chicharon. Using low heat, the chunks of pork shoulder (kasim) is cooked in a vat full of oil until the skin is quite dry but still quite pale. The meat is then taken out of the oil and the "manong" (elderly male) would increase the heat for the oil to reach almost boiling. He then returns the meat chunks into the vat and cooks the bagnet for a few more minutes, until the skin gets blistered and the meat golden. It is then taken out of the vat and arranged on trays, left to air dry for a few more hours and then delivered to the marketplace.

During the mid afternoon, we went to one Vigan empanada maker and saw how each piece is made with such labor of love. A dough made of ground rice and water is rolled and filled with crumbled longanisa, eggyolk and grated papaya and deep fried in melted pork lard. Crisp and warm, each bite is savored best with Sukang Iloco complete with chopped chillies and garlic.

Surely, Ilocos sur boasts more than all these. Will share with you more of my food finds during this trip. Need to go on a break now. I'm hungry.

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